Thursday, May 26, 2011

Breaking news (ICTR Press Release)

Bernard Munyagishari Arrested

The ICTR Prosecutor, Justice Hassan Bubacar Jallow, announced today the arrest in the DRC of ICTR fugitive Bernard Munyagishari (52), former President of the Interahamwe for Gisenyi, who was arrested in an operation mounted by the DRC Armed forces, in collaboration with the OTP Tracking Unit in Kachanga, North Kivu.

Munyagishari, currently detained in Goma pending transfer to the Tribunal, is wanted by the ICTR on charges of genocide and crimes against humanity, including rape.

The Prosecutor hailed the DRC authorities for their cooperation in executing the warrant of arrest despite the hurdles encountered in tracking down the fugitive in difficult terrain. The accused is alleged to have recruited, trained and lead Interahamwe militiamen in mass killings and rapes of Thttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifutsi women in Gisenyi and beyond, between April and July 1994.

Munyagishari, born in 1959 in Rubavu commune in Gisenyi prefecture was arrested pursuant to an international warrant issued by Judge Alexei Egorov on 8 September 2005. He has featured on the US Rewards for Justice programme as a fugitive from international justice.

Arrangements are being made for the accused to be surrendered by the DRC authorities and transferred to the seat of the Tribunal in Arusha. Nine fugitives are still at large.

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You can read more about his alleged crimes here. More work for the Tribunal...?
In numbers:

- 24 cases in progress
- 2 awaiting trial
- 50 completed cases, of which:
- 8 cases are on appeal,
- 8 were acquitted,
- 1 died before trial,
- 2 cases were transferred to national jurisdiction,
- 2 were released, and
- 7 have already completed their sentences.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Reporting from the Kilimanjaro (wing)

You will have to excuse the delay in my writing. I have already been swept up by the daily commotions of life in Arusha, work at the Tribunal, and travel arrangements.
For starters, I am in my room at the White House. It is 2am on a Tuesday. The internet connection is rather slow, and my day has been so full today and yesterday that I am recovering from a long nap or fighting jet lag. At least I have the Internet and a mosquito net over my head, for which I am very grateful. Ode to the mosquito net:


Dreamcatcher of the East,
she’ll hang the crawling creepers and
veiled threats on wings and foot.
Nestled in her royal curtains, I am in utero.




The summer interns are officially slated to begin next week, but I have decided to come in early to get the logistics out of the way, such as getting my UN ID pass, signing up for Swahili language lessons, and getting a feel for the big, maze-like building that houses the Prosecution, Defense, and the Trial Chambers on different wings. Most importantly, I get to have my pick of the available computers and offices, which, like the rooms in this house, go from best to worse in order of seniority.

We work in the Chambers’ wing, the Kilimanjaro. “We” here at the office constitute Jack, Matthew, and Douglas from the White House, as well as Leyli and a French girl, Sophia. There are more interns’ offices down the hall. Like Charlie’s Clueless Angels, we receive our cryptic orders from various supervising legal officers from the busy phone in the room. We recognize one thick voice at the end of the line as being the legal officers and interns’ supervisor’s, and it is his office I first visit upon my entrance. Earlier this afternoon, I sat on his leather chair and enjoyed a cup of hibiscus tea while we discussed the kinds of cases I would most like to work on. He also invites me along to hike Mt. Meru. At the corner of the room, a small TV transmits a case being tried just a few doors down. The most magnificent birds—large, pelican-or cormorant-like creatures, fly at the level of the seventh floor, overlooking the city in the hills. A cool breeze from our open windows suffices to prevent us from slowly steaming at our desks. The air feels fresh and the bleeding sunsets in the unpolluted sky are a radiant sight to behold.

By the end of the day, I am assigned a very interesting case already in the drafting process with French attorneys (French is the other working language of the Court). The women are bloody brilliant—I watched them deliberate on important issues of the case, seamlessly switching from French to English legal terms and dissecting the issue from all possible perspectives—that of the Rwandan government, the role of the gacacas (pronounced "gachacha". Popular courts in Rwanda that handle a bulk of the crimes committed in the 1994 genocide), the judges, the Appeals Chamber… I’ve found these deliberative sessions to be one of the best parts of an intern’s apprendisage. I sit and absorb and observe how different attorneys think through different issues, approach pragmatic affairs and balance the political conflicts as just one part of their jobs. Mostly, they are in the enviable position of pushing for the best legal standards and stances after weighing the arguments of the prosecution and the defense, and presenting such views in a convincing package to the judges. A lot of the times, these arguments are in conflict with the judges’ positions and adjustments have to be made. That is where politics come in and create a tricky balancing act. Because of the nature of international judicial institutions, there is an inevitable tension between the domestic laws of a still fragile nation, Rwanda, and the otherwise countervailing interests of justice in the abstract but foundational legal sense.

Due to the confidential nature of the work of the Tribunal, I will not be commenting on the specific aspects of the case here but will be providing context where I can. Already, I am knee-deep in literature and am excited at the freedom and the responsibility that comes attached with my assignment. You can think of the legal process as having many layers of review with many drafting stages. The lawyers oversee the big picture of the case and assign different sections to people on the team. At the bottom, the indentured intern writes her opinion or a memorandum on the assigned issue. The lawyers provide feedback as we deliberate throughout the process. But in the end, because we essentially work for the judges, my supervising attorney seemingly gives me leeway to push for the arguments I feel strongly about, and collate various arguments where they are in dispute. It’s a collaborative process rather than a strictly hierarchical one from the usual office setting, and although our views may not always agree with the ultimate decision-makers’, our job is to also persuade them with coherent legal analysis. In that regard, I have never before been involved in the decision-making aspect of the law, and I am very excited for this unique opportunity. The law is very much being made and applied in the Chambers and in clerks’ offices everywhere. The law is judge-made-- with a little bit of help from a team of passionate and hard workers.

Mambo Monday

Monday cannot be skipped. This is the day I perused around town being ogled by the locals, got guided on an impromptu tour by a Tanzanian hip-hop enthusiast, almost got lost in the corn fields and finished off the day with a well-deserved beer (NB: it's safer than water!) with the interns. I will need more hours in the night to write, but that’s the teaser!

Monday, May 23, 2011

Arrival

As soon as I stepped off the airplane, my senses were enveloped by an earthy, fresh smell, shortly followed by the warming humidity that quickly clouded my eyeglasses. Kilimanjaro airport is a modest building located near the national park, about a 45-minute drive to the city center. Affixed ceiling fans provided a gust, nay, a blow of air at every rotation, providing some ventilation to the top of my head. Wooden floors creek beneath our feet.

We are herded inside and the faint odor of body sweat replaces the earlier earthy must. The small airport is packed with mostly British, French, and American foreigners and residents, as well as a handful of nationals from African nations. There is a visa line, in case you forwent the visa procedure at home (double everything for Americans). I talk myself out of needing a work permit, as the security agent just shrugs and returns my passport.


I had no idea what to expect coming into the country, but I had a few assumptions coming into an airport. I thought there would be a bureau de change or an ATM where I could withdraw some Tanzanian shillings. I also assumed there would be a phone booth to call my friend Jack, with whom I'd be staying while I get settled. I also expected there to be an ICTR (Tribunal) van, but not really. As I am setting you up to imagine, none of these assumptions held true-- But I was relieved to see my name on a sheet of paper, held by a man outside the baggage claim area.

I tell the driver to wait for me while I purchase a SIM card for my phone. Upon my return, he is nowhere to be found.

--
Where did he go? I ask the man who is helping me carry my suitcases. Before I can say another word he doesn't understand in the Swahili I do not speak, he rushes out into the parking lot as I trot closely behind. It is dark out, and the big leaved trees shuffle around in the wind in this blind chase, as white jeep after white jeep comes up without my driver in sight. We finally stumble upon a packed car with two foreigners standing around. After a quick chat, I recognize both of them as being native English-speakers, who also happen to work for the Tribunal.

The men try to pack our suitcases into different Tetris blocks combinations until they find an arrangement that works. And so, with the tender corner of a luggage serving as a pillow and our backpacks on our laps, we drive away into the starry night of Arusha.

--
I will whittle down their introductions to a series of coincidences. Deborah is a prosecutor for the ICTR from Kansas City, Missouri. Matthew is fellow intern at the Chambers who grew up in Hong Kong and now attends Columbia Law. We suspect we both got our old phones unlocked by some shady dude outside of a Starbucks in Seattle at the U-District in 2006.
--

Having no working phone, I am unable to reach Jack and uncertain where I will be spending the night. Matthew wants to be dropped off at a hostel the driver does not recognize. The prosecutor is trying to get us to switch over and work for her at the Office of the Prosecutor (OTP -- NB: I will write a separate entry on the arrangement of the tribunal), and the intern coordinator sitting on the passenger's side wants to go to bed.

I am finally able to reach Jack with Deborah's phone and Matthew is invited along.
We arrive at the White House off of a specified road, which is the only address I know for the place. The big houses here are all gated with guards inside. I look up on the porch to see young, handsome interns smoking cigarettes and drinking wine, and a feeling of gratitude sweeps over me as they welcome us in. I have a home.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Sleep is for Flights

Off to a rough start...
Swallowing gigantic malaria pill on an empty stomach = recipe for the toilet bowl.


Actual pill size.


Eating mama's food = the cure-all...


T-minus 1 hour to the Hartsfield-Jackson airport, bathroom stop in Amsterdam, Sunday night arrival in Arusha.

Can't wait to sleep next to my favorite halitoxic snorers and have elbow fights and pillow talk behind adorable screaming babies!

Kwaheri! Siwezi kusema Kiswahili. Hatari Mbuni.
(Goodbye! I can't speak Swahili. Danger Ostrich.)

Thursday, May 19, 2011

crapture this.

Been spending the last few days mostly hunched over my laptop in my room, which currently looks like the aftermath of a suitcase-inspection detonation at the airport. A suitcase that was full of wires, to-do lists, and mini hotel shampoo bottles (intact, taped-up in their little ziplock bags).


I am having pre-travel jitters.

It's when you pack a shirt only to take it out again, put it back in then shove it away in the corner of a room like the unsuccessful games of catch I play with my ham-aholic dog, Pochito (I throw and fetch). Pack light, light, light! Are two mini contact lens solution bottles going to last me all summer? I would just go with the glasses, but I want to see the world in panoramic vision and unblurred. I'm thinking ahead of myself anyway because I have postponed all packing activities to iron my work shirts first, as if that would greatly minimize the ruthless ruffling they would endure in the waltzing yet ungraceful arms of the baggage handlers...



And already, I'm having that nagging worry that I will not get to experience as much as I can, every day that I'm there. I should be preparing more for work at the Tribunal, which right about now sounds as daunting as preparing to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. I worry I did not get the multiple-entry visa, signed up for the wrong insurance plan, and the world is coming to an end this Saturday. That's it. I have wasted my last days in neurotic anticipation instead of attending rapture parties!!


But my goal should not be to do as much as possible; it should be to take in as much as I can. I am a lousy planner but I survive quite swimmingly with less structured expectations (a common refrain among bad planners, you say?). A wise old Medicine Man once told me his key to happiness was to have very low expectations, and to have tricycle and hitchhiking races and cake clubs in every city. But there ain't no way I'll be packing a three-wheeler in my two-wheeler suitcase. What I need is Tinklebell fairy dust, and a spoonful of SUGAR!

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

This and That




Happy Reading/Should be reading


Weekdays' schedule / Weekend's schedule



Dreaming of /Climbing


Playlist / Play thing



Happy Anniversary!!

Monday, May 16, 2011

If I had a penny...

for all the unsolicited advice I receive about "Africa", that large landmass, thy priapic continent...!

Where does the need to share this comparative perspective come from?


I think I understand...
how stepping back into a world where materiality is the luxury of choice and not of necessity
must put more weight on the divine existence of our Free Will™ consumption

Sunday, May 15, 2011

A handful of firsts and laying out the ground rules.

I'm going with a handful, because it does not fall into the ambiguous linguistic connotations [redundant] of "several" and "a few" which took up an entire summer's night at a shindig in Maryland. But to not inadvertently diss on linguists' parties, I will say this: a lot of dancing was also had.

A handful: a quantitative measure you can cup in your hands and pick with your booger fingers.







Left to right: berries; world's smallest postal service letters; Rupert (photo by Jeff Moore).
[Rupert kinda ruins it but he is KAWAiii!]


A handful also suggests this post should not take long, but given that I like to have many rambling sides with my main dish, it will probably hiccup and vomit all over the Golden Rule of brevity. Speaking of:

Rules.

The First Rule is I will not punctuate inside quotation marks, as inspired by this Slate post, but I will probably break this rule many times here so it should not be taken as a categorical statement-- it will satisfactorily serve as a reminder for those afflicted with grammaritis.

The Second Rule is I will try to actually write in this blog, and as the first rule goes, alas... I am not a strict enforcer and misery needs company. But this is also the kind of rule that is best enforced with much public shaming and pressure, which is where you, the readers, come in. Throw that first stone and break my glass garden. Do it!

The Third Rule is, despite the unrestrained excitement that I had to share at the top of this page, this will not be a blog on Tanzania. Certainly, that's where I will be in the summer, and if that is my only direction in my writing I might as well call it "Western/Eastern/South-American girl in Africa" or "Heart of Darkness". But that sounds like it will end in tragedy and foreshadows a moral lesson I have yet to learn, or perhaps one we all happen to learn once we step outside that comfort zone.

Being the lousy Skyper that I am, the intent behind the blog is to keep my family aware of my continuing, healthy, hexad-immunized existence and to let my friends laugh along at my travels and misadventures. Travels are a rather solitary experience when it comes down to it-- you return to a place you feel has not changed and find it hard to communicate or explain what it is exactly that was so different, and through that difference and newness, what it is that has invariably changed inside of you.

I suppose that is the internal motivating factor and final rule: to communicate. To be able to share and lighten that solitary load the Is of the world like to hoard. And why wouldn't we? Millions have traveled farther, higher, and better. There's nothing to brag about and no need for competition. This is just one summer, but it happens to be an extra exciting one for me, doing interesting work with the "international" prefix and stepping into a brand new landmass and into a city in a far away country.